Cooking

Catering to all the folks

In business for more than a century, Kewpee is the second oldest hamburger chain in the United States. Beginning with the Kewpee Hotel in Flint, Michigan, founder Samuel “Old Man Kewpee” Blair soon opened his original hamburger stand. That location served the world’s first deluxe hamburger, crafted from fresh, never-frozen beef and topped with tomatoes, lettuce and mayo. By licensing the Kewpee name, Blair and Ohio Kewpee Hotel operator Edwin Adams expanded into a chain of hundreds of hamburger stands and restaurants, mainly in the Midwest. A small number of Kewpee locations survived competition and still serve Olive Burgers, fries, malts and pie to lucky customers.

Author Gary Flinn tells the full story of Kewpee, its many locations long gone and its spinoff, Halo Burger.

For more than 130 years, there has been no sweeter word in Detroit than Sanders.

Sanders was more than just an ice-cream and candy shop—a Detroit icon, it served a fountain of memories for generations. The venerable confectioner was once as much a part of Detroit's streetscape as the Big Three, Hudson's, and Coney Islands, where customers stood two and three deep behind lunch counters for tuna or egg salad sandwiches, devil’s food buttercream “bumpy” cake, hot fudge sundaes, and Sanders’ signature dessert—hot fudge cream puffs. As Detroit boomed, so did Sanders, and at its peak, the company boasted more than 50 stores, with its products available in as many as 200 supermarkets. The Motor City nearly lost Sanders in the mid-1980s, but its dessert shops have begun to resurface, thanks to another Detroit institution, Morley Brands LLC, which bought the Sanders brand in 2002. Even after more than a century has passed when Fred Sanders opened his first shop in Chicago, Sanders Confectionery has opportunity to become a national player in desserts and candy.

A culinary history of the Gateway City and the memorable restaurants that once made their home there.

St. Louis is a food town, but of the many restaurants that have captured the heart of the city, some are no longer around. Rossino’s low ceilings and even lower pipes didn’t stop the pizza-hungry residents from crowding in. Jefferson Avenue Boarding House served elegant “Granny Food” in plush surroundings. King Burgers and onion rings ruled at the Parkmoor. Dohack’s claimed it was the first to name the “jack salmon.”

Author Ann Lemons Pollack details these and more restaurants lost to time in the Gateway City.

“Few St. Louisans know the history of the St. Louis food scene like local food and travel writer Ann Lemons Pollack. . . . The book is a treasure trove for St. Louis history-lovers, beginning with an extensively researched look at the food served at the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition—better known as the 1904 World’s Fair—hosted in St. Louis. She debunks some myths—hot dogs were not “invented” at the fair, but perhaps found a wide audience there—and charts the various restaurants and cafes that fed eager fairgoers.”—Feast Magazine

New Orleans history is steeped in coffee. Café du Monde and Morning Call started serving café au lait more than a century ago.

Outside the Cathedral of St. Louis in Jackson Square, early entrepreneurs like Old Rose provided eager churchgoers with the brew, and it was sold in the French Market beginning in the late 1700s. People gathered for business, socializing, politics and auctions at five hundred coffee exchanges and shops in the 1800s. Since 1978, myriad specialty coffee shops have opened to meet increasing demand for great coffee. Author Suzanne Stone presents the full story of this celebrated tradition, including how chicory became part of the city’s special flavor.

A Tale of Two Lone Stars

Two different breweries from two different centuries, both steeped in German and Texas history, happen to be connected in name only. St. Louis’s seasoned beer man Adolphus Busch and several San Antonio businessmen sought to modernize brewing in Texas and leave their distinctive mark on the burgeoning industry. They brought more than just German lager, serving up porters and bocks as well. Ultimately, Prohibition precipitated their shuttering. Meanwhile, Karl Haegelin’s Sabinas Brewery in Sabinas, Mexico, raised the bar for quality while enduring the whims of Pancho Villa. Eventually, Haeglin would move the operation to San Antonio at the end of Prohibition. By 1940, name and ownership had changed too, rebranded as Busch’s old trademark—the Lone Star Brewing Company. The reborn Lone Star, steered by Harry Jersig, would craft a recognizable, purely Texas persona—in its identity, its approach to brewing, and its relationships with customers. Join author Jeremy Banas and savor the lineage and legacy of a cherished local libation.